Speaking of cheap meat, here’s a bit of good news. Chipotle, the Mexican food chain, has made a deal with Joe Salatin’s Polyface Farms to use his pork in its branch in Charlottesville, Virginia. Salatin, the “Christian libertarian environmentalist” farmer immortalized in Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma, pasture-raises his animals in a traditional and sustainable fashion. The story details the hoops Chipotle had to jump through to stay ture to Salatin’s localist strictures, which makes you wonder if less scrupulous companies will find ways to brand themselves “local” while watering down the meaning, as critics of “big organic” charge has happened in that market. Or is “big local” a circle that can never be squared?